Jean Luc Mader Gewurztraminer VT / 2018 / 500mL

Description:

The Jean-Luc Mader Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 2018 is a richly sweet Alsace white made from late-picked fruit grown on clay and limestone at Hunawihr, in a half bottle. Concentrated and perfumed without being heavy, it carries its sugar on a line of freshness rather than sheer weight.

Rose water and lychee lead, the classic Gewurztraminer signature, with quince paste, dried apricot, candied citrus peel and a wisp of smoke and ginger spice underneath. The 2018 fruit came from 44-year-old vines in the Muhlforst lieu-dit, a cooler site that allows a long, slow ripening without botrytis, so the flavours are clean and bright rather than honeyed and mushroomy.

The palate is unctuous and broad, with fermentation by natural yeasts and seven months on lees giving it a creamy, layered texture. Sweetness is generous but the finish stays clear and long, closing on citrus peel bitterness and spice that keeps the whole thing lively.

Pour it alongside a wedge of Munster or blue cheese, seared foie gras, or a fruit tart built on apricot, peach or poached pear. It also handles fragrant Thai and Sichuan cooking where chilli and aromatics need a sweet counterweight.

Drinking beautifully now and will hold through to around 2033, though bear in mind a 500mL bottle evolves faster than a 750mL — which makes this format ideal for two people over dessert, with nothing left over.