Alois Kracher Eiswein (Estate) / 2020 / 375mL

Description:

The Kracher Eiswein (Estate) 2020 is a lusciously sweet Austrian dessert wine from Neusiedlersee-Burgenland, bottled in a 375mL half. Intensely sugared but held together by bright acidity, it tastes of preserved citrus and orchard fruit rather than sheer syrup.

Aromas run to poached quince, dried apricot, candied lemon peel and a touch of honeycomb, with something floral sitting behind the fruit. The palate is thick and glossy, carrying nectarine, pineapple and marmalade across the tongue.

What keeps this Eiswein from cloying is the acid, which cuts a clean line through all that concentration and leaves the finish tapering rather than sticky. Texture is oily and slow-moving, and the aftertaste holds citrus zest and a faint note of ginger for a good while after the sip.

Serve it well chilled in small pours alongside blue cheese, a fruit tart, crème brûlée or a wedge of aged cheddar. It also works on its own after dinner, which is where the half bottle earns its keep — two or three glasses of something this rich is usually the right amount for a table, and there is no half-finished bottle left in the fridge. A good choice for a smaller gathering, or as a gift for someone who likes sweet wine but rarely opens a full 750mL.

Drink now through to 2035, keeping in mind that a 375mL format matures faster than a full bottle, so this will develop its toffee and dried-fruit character earlier.